We are on our way! Finally we are on the last stage of the journey to Timbuktu. Of course, it is a long way back as well…

This morning started bright and early at 7:00 when we headed over to the other building for breakfast even though the time of departure had been set for 9:30. We met Ebrima and Diana there who we informed about the change of plan. We were packed, paid and at the boat by 8:30 ready to go. I was able to get the man at the small shop to find a small boy to take our water to the shore where our ruck-sacks were waiting to be loaded (yes, I gave him a bit of a “tip” for this service, I am not that cruel!). We sat around and waited on the beach which made us a target for a few rather aggressive people wanting to sell us things (in this case, trousers which Anne was trying desperately not to show any interest in, though did not seem to deter the sellers much).

Eventually we boarded the boat to find that our group of 11 had been joined by a family of four who were, evidently, getting out part way into the journey later this evening. We managed to get settled into our seats, as follows:

• First Row - Single French lady
• Second Row - Young French couple
• Third Row - Two Frenchman (one of which is the one that speaks good English)
• Fourth Row - Sue, Chris and another Frenchman
• Fifth Row - Myself, Anne, Ebrima and Diana (yes, very crowded)
• Sixth Row - The French Family (the four of them)

Behind all of these rows is the “kitchen” area. Just before we left they called along the beach and seemed to just pick a lady up to do our cooking for us!

It was a bit difficult getting off the beach but eventually a number of men were able to push us off. We were on our way! We were all very excited as the engine started and we left the Mopti area. The river is very wide in Mopti with the whole city on the south side of the river. As we left that area we came into a series of narrows in the river which made us thankful we were in the high-riding pinasse we were in! We passed by a number of small villages when all of a sudden the engine stopped. Oh dear. We had just passed another village so as we beached on the shore one of the guys running the boat headed back for a bit of help. We took the opportunity to explore the shore a bit but there was not a lot to see (and it was quite muddy on the bank).

Chris was in search of a rock to use as a weight. He got Alex to bring him some fishing line and a hook because he hopes on this trip to do a bit of fishing. All he needed was a weight but there was not a rock to be found (lots of mud and dirt though).

About an hour later we were off again after a mechanic from the village seemed to be able to fix the motor though the next village we got to the men piloting the boat aimed it (seemingly) at a few ladies bathing in the water to beach the boat again. This seems to be a common trait with us whenever we go into the shore the pilot always seems to aim at the ladies bathing! I suppose he is young and all that flesh…But still, very rude and possibly quite dangerous. Anyway, at this point one of the guys from the boat strolled into the village then returned. We never really knew what he did, perhaps visit a friend? Anyway, we headed off and a short time later we were served lunch.

Our lunch was passed down on plates from the back of the boat (along with cutlery) and was a mutton benechin (tomato paste in rice with various vegetables, a speciality in The Gambia and Senegal as well). I really enjoyed it as I asked for seconds and even cleaned up the scraps from other people's plates. I don't know why I was so hungry, maybe it is because of the small (continental, yet again) breakfast I had at the hotel this morning?

We continued to have minor motor problems throughout the day though we also stopped at one point for a sandstorm that we could see coming on the horizon. We beached and they pulled down the flaps covering the sides of the boats to protect us. We spent a few minutes like this while we waited for the storm to clear though the sand still got in and we noticed a thin film over everything for some time afterwards.

Often the river will separate into smaller channels with mud banks. There is not a lot to see here except the occasional mud building village breaking up the continuous view of small shrubs, small sandy beach and dirt banks. The occasional tree in the distance or on the shore strikes interest for a time but most of the day we spent in quiet contemplation or, for those bored of contemplating, in sleep in the bottom of the boat which turned out to be much cooler than sitting in the (rather uncomfortable after five hours) seats.

Towards the end of the day we noticed a large expanse of water ahead of us and the shores basically disappeared – being almost flush with the surface of the river. We had reached a rather large lake. Heading out into the reeds we quickly turned around – A sandstorm/rainstorm could be seen approaching fast on the horizon. Returning back into the channel we had just left we passed again by the small village on the point there and docked for a few minutes while the crew decided what to do.

Chris got out to take a look around though I, not being able to feel the bottom of the river with tentative feeling of my feet deep into the water even though I was only two feet from the shore, decided to give it a miss. Eventually we returned to another, larger, village we had passed only a short time ago. It was now dark, about 7:30 PM as we climbed out of the boat in the middle of the village and mulled around while the crew arranged things for us. The family was offered a hut in the village while the rest of us were asked to help with pitching the tents in an open area in the middle of the village. Of course, it being dark, a rain storm already getting underway and sand mixing in the air along with it, this was a bit difficult. I tried to be of help by assisting not only with pitching the tents but also offering the light of my flashlight (torch). It did help a bit.

We managed to pitch the tents and determine our sleeping arrangements (Chris, Sue and I were to share a tent while Anne was to sleep on board the boat) we were called back to the boat for dinner. It was not as good as lunch but still, I found it quite tasty – couscous with a tomato sauce (and, of course, sand). In the dark. With flashlights (torches) to see what we were eating.

The cushions from the seats on the boat very quickly “disappeared” though I was able to grab one or two for our tent.

We headed up to the tents. I got in first and made up my “bedding”: A sheet I had brought with me on top of a cushion from the boat with my towel serving as a blanket – though a blanket was not really needed in the sweat house that was our tent. I was dripping like crazy. The fly covering the tent to protect it from the rain was also keeping the heat in. As we had been setting up the tent in the sand unfortunately a lot of it had got inside the tent making the floor quite dirty as well.

As I lie there I could hear Chris and Sue approaching: “Bing!” I said. Sue got the reference immediately and this started a whole series of jokes for the next half-hour – we had the giggles.

“What am I doing, I am 50 years old!” “Bing, bing!” “Whose hand is that?” “Might as well sleep outside in the dirt!”

It is going to be a LONG night. They told us just as we were returning to the tents after dinner: We were leaving at 5:00 am (unbelievable!). I guess they are behind schedule…

Oh, do you not get it? Oh dear. What does a microwave do when it is finished cooking what it is inside of it?

⇒ Continue to Day 12 - Thursday, July 29th, 2004