Ok, so the plan is that we take the train from Dakar, the capital of nearby Senegal (where we will be able to get our visas for Mali), to Bamako, the capital of Mali then work our way across the country from there with the ultimate destination of Timbuktu but with notable stops along the way including a trip to the Dogon Valley. Of course, I am not naïve enough to think that this plan in any way shape or form will actually happen but it is comforting to have a general idea of what we are going to do.

We have been preparing for this trip for a long time with a number of gatherings at our respective houses to discuss what we want to do and generally getting to know each other a bit better. We understand that this is important since we will be spending four weeks travelling around together in a strange country. Not a pleasant prospect if you can't stand one another. Originally I had heard that Chris and Sue were planning a trip to Mali so I asked Chris one day at the VSO office (we are all volunteers here working for VSO) whether I could tag along. He agreed and a while later after Anne expressed an interest in coming as well, she made it a foursome.

Today is the first day of what promises to be a rather arduous journey: one in which none of us really knows what to expect. Luckily, we start on a note that all of us are familiar with: the trip to Dakar. Since Dakar is only 5-6 hours away from where we live and work all of us have visited at least once (and, in my case, a number of times).

The day began quite early as I was up at 5:00 am having my breakfast of croissants (from a local bakery – have to start this journey on the right note!) and mango waiting for the taxi driver to pick me up at 6:00 am. I had arranged to leave my keys with him which he would then give to another VSO volunteer living next door so that I would not run the risk of losing them while on holiday. He showed up on time (as is normal with him) and we then picked up Anne and her somewhat smaller case and then Chris and Sue with their shared small case. Why is it that I have the largest of all the rucksacks? It is not as if I am a fashion plate or anything nor have I really packed a lot: a few T-shirts, bug spray, toiletries, towel, sheet (for sleeping in/with), travel books (it turns out I was the only one who had actually gone out and purchased travel books on Mali but the others have been taking advantage of it though…), anti-malarials, water treatment tablets (chlorine, must be very tasty in water!), torch (flash light), a smaller rucksack for day-to-day running around, and a few other odds and sods. I can't imagine it fitting in anything smaller than the pack I had. I wonder what the others have packed/haven't packed then?

We were able to get to the capital, Banjul, at 6:30 to catch the first ferry across the river Gambia at 7:00 where we had booked tickets on the GPTC (Gambia Public Transport Corporation) bus for Dakar. Sue and Chris had done that but had had some difficulties when they attempted to book the tickets earlier in the week but told to call back the day before (yesterday) after 4:00 PM. When they called yesterday at 3:30 PM they were told the tickets were all sold out but they would try to get us on the bus anyway! Every time I take this bus it seems to get more and more complicated. Anyway, Chris and I waited with our pile of bags by the car entrance to the ferry (much more civilised than the pedestrian entrance I assure you) waiting while Sue and Anne got the tickets. Eventually through a bit of discussion with the guy at the gate we were able to walk through and get onboard the ferry just a bit ahead of the mad rush of others entering via the other gate…

We were all a bit excited about finally having set out on our great adventure but only chatted a small bit on the short journey across the river. Leaving the ferry we went to where I thought the bus would be waiting for us (it has been there in the past) but learned, after a few questions to a few different people, that it was in a different location (as it turns out, much more convenient for the ferry). Once we got there the roll call was underway so we stood back and waited for our names to be called, after which we pushed our way through the melée to board the bus. The bus was a normal city bus with city-bus style seating hardly suited for the six hour journey ahead of us but that is the way things are, I suppose.

I was a bit shocked after sitting down to realise my watch had been stolen. Odd that I did not feel it being taken off of my wrist (perhaps the strap was cut?). It is a bit of a disappointment since the watch was a gift from my sister and though not expensive had a certain amount of sentimental attachment for me. I guess this goes to show that we will have to be careful on this trip and take nothing for granted, even the relative safety of The Gambia.

Once we were fully loaded we were indeed that with luggage piled throughout the aisles and often two or three bags deep. There was a bit of a problem when the GPTC personnel requested a bit of “extra” money for getting us on the bus. Anne and I refused on principal though I understand that one of the others did give a bit. The ticket is actually very reasonably priced at 200 D (Gambian Dalasis, which is equivalent to about £4). This price is much less than any other form of public transport to Dakar when you would be lucky to get away with 400 D.

As we were waiting to leave we were treated to a fine display of pigs rolling around in the mud that is the road this time of year in Barra. It is a bit funny seeing so many pigs around considering this is a Muslim country but they are always out in force in Barra, if not in the muddy streets then scrounging for food on the litter-strewn beaches.

Eventually after the fares had been collected from everyone and things had settled down a bit, or as settled as they were going to be, we headed off. 9:30. Not too bad for a scheduled 8:00 departure time. Much better than the time my mother and I waited until after 11:00 before finally heading off.

A little less than an hour later we arrived at the border which I find the most tedious part of this bus journey. There are a total of three stops: Gambia Immigration, Senegal Customs, and Senegal Immigration. As the others in our group got their passports stamped I watched the bags on the bus. This was one of the advantages we had identified in travelling as a group: the ability to watch each others belongings while part of the group does other things. Once Chris returned to the bus it was my turn. The bus seemed to get going quickly as Sue and Chris had to hurry away from getting breakfast in order for us to move on. Generally I have never experienced any significant problems with the border guards here and today was no exception with even a friendly English-speaking guard in Senegalese immigration that seemed to want to talk for a long time despite my rather furtive glances at the bus idling across the road. 10:30 we were on our way again.

The road is generally not that good with the worse bits being from Barra to the Gambia/Senegal border then the road gets better until just before getting to Kaolack (roughly 1/3 of the way to Dakar) when the Senegal road maintenance crew let down the motorists a bit. We eventually arrived at the customs checkpoint at Kaolack at about 12:30, for a distance about 90 km from the border. In two hours. Oh dear. The bus was very slow, we figure averaging about 60 kph on these relatively good roads.

The rest stop at Kaolack was welcoming as numerous passengers scrambled to find cover around the back of the various buildings (the “rest rooms” of course being a place where you can do your thing without offending anyone else…too much at least). We helped ourselves to some frozen local juices at 50 CFA each. I guess we will have to think in CFA from now on instead of Dalasis. I remember the first time coming through here with another volunteer and she not having anything smaller than a 5,000 CFA note trying to get one of the juices. Eventually the child selling it gave it to her for nothing. Now, we come prepared with smaller bills and, the preferred, coins.

The journey to Dakar was generally uneventful after this with our chatting away anxiously as the holiday begins to unfold. I really don't know Chris and Sue that well and I must admit that part of the reason I wanted to go on this holiday was to get to know them better since they seem like very nice people. This bus journey we started to get to know each other with Chris sitting directly infront of me we had a number of long conversations while Sue and Anne sitting across the aisle from us (I told you it was a city bus! Single seats along the aisles only!) also chatting amongst themselves. It should be a very good trip.

There were, of course, the periodic stops for people to “visit the trees” as well as the many stops in the suburbs as we got closer to Dakar. We were pleased to see as we rounded the peninsula that leads to Dakar that we could make out our destination for this evening: the island of Gorée. This is a small island just off the coast of Dakar that is a haven for those visiting the big and crowded city of Dakar as it is a quiet and pleasant place to spend some time.

We eventually arrived at the ferry terminal where the bus driver dropped us as he made his way to the bus terminal. We, of course, were the last to leave the bus with others having dropped at the various places outside of Dakar where people actually live not within the city itself, where we were going. 5:30 is pretty good time and left us an hour before the ferry was to leave for Gorée so we took the opportunity to grab a drink and relax in the bar/restaurant above the ferry terminal itself. The restaurant has seen better days – even within my memory of a few years – but the drinks were cold and the view was…interesting…if a bit industrial. A container ship was loading to the right of the dock area we were sitting at and there were a number of pleasure craft along the shore on the left with a few fishing trawlers in front and a dry dock area in the distance.

As we are residents of West Africa volunteers are well aware of the fact that the Gorée ferry offers us discounts so we clutched our 2,500 CFA (return) tickets and passed into the waiting room then onto the ferry. We were joined on the ferry by many others including a bridal party with the groom in a prim and proper suit while the bride had decorative henna on the hands and feet. Very nice. Pictures snapping (of both the happy couple and the island we were quickly approaching) we traveled into the Gorée harbour. We quickly made our exit from the ferry taking care not to fall in the water with the way the boat bounced around and we were supposed to jump (at an opportune moment) onto the concrete dockside then we continued to the hotel.

We are staying at the Auberge Kerr Beer which is my accommodation of choice on Gorée having booked last week. I always have a fun time trying to book ahead since my French is quite basic and added onto that the pressure of a long distance phone call things can get a bit interesting. Luckily I had managed to get across our requirements on the phone and our reservation was in perfect order: three rooms, a double (for Chris and Sue) and two singles (one for me and one for Anne). Kerr Beer is an immaculate and, for Dakar, cheap place to stay with friendly staff. Both myself and Anne were in rooms with many other beds (unused) though Anne's room also has a toilet and shower, I have to use the shared facilities though this does not really bother me – except for when they are busy…

We managed to get ourselves settled and relaxed for a few hours before getting together at 8:00 for dinner. Gorée is very busy with tourists though we were happy to see a large number of them queuing for the return ferry to Dakar as we sat down in Café Tonton (the first restaurant on the beach, and recommended by our hotelier) for fish and meat brochette (me). We watched the children playing in the water on the beach as we listened to some light music in the background and the persistent call of some local birds. Quite pleasant.

An early night though since tomorrow we have a few serious things to do, such as sort out our visas and figure out the train. 10:30 seems late enough.

⇒ Continue to Day 2 - Monday, July 19th, 2004