It was another relatively late start today as we got up at 8:00. Breakfast was the grapefruit I got from Ségou that I have been carrying around with me for some days now!

It was early enough that when we got to the main square outside the mosque there were still some stalls being set up. On the side streets near the square there were some trucks completely full of mangoes that they were selling by the dozen out of the back. We explored the market. Down an alley with numerous stalls selling American clothing (generally clothing “donated” for Africa is actually sold to local businessmen who in turn sell it to the people) as well as plastic for use as tarpaulins, tools, and the ever-present “deep-fried dough balls” (I am not being flippant – I did have some today and they are not all that tasty simply because that is all they are – batter deep fried). The layout of the market is pretty much like what I am used to in The Gambia with it stretching pretty much to every street and alley in the middle of Djenné. They sell pretty much the same things too though there were the occasional item that we did not recognise – there was a large section with cloths spread out on the ground which were covered with these small balls of brownish-black substance which turns out to be a flavouring used in some local dishes. There were also some catfish from the river which seem to be in abundance here (some were VERY large and obviously alive). They dry the catfish that curl up with the tail touching the lips in a very distinctive shape. We tried a few things but generally we were just looking to see what was on offer. I was particularly interested in buying some Mali cloth but there was none on offer, which disappointed me.

Returning back to the hotel we took the opportunity to go up onto the roof of one of the buildings around the square (the owners know they are onto a good thing as they charged us 500 CFA!). It was a fantastic view of the mosque's inner courtyard as well as the market area itself that stretched throughout the streets in front of us. It was a tapestry of different coloured plastics covering the various stalls and goods for sale along with people and vehicles all over the place. Quite fascinating to watch.

11:30 we arrived back at the hotel and relaxed once again as the heat began. I lay quietly in the room with the fan going while Anne helped herself once again to food offered by the family in the compound (not as nice as yesterday – Okra with sauce on rice). We bought some water from the hotel though it is generally much more expensive then the water you can get in the local shops (1,000 CFA instead of 500 CFA, generally, in the shops) though, admittedly, they do provide COLD water in the hotel…We were offered some cut mango which also helped us deal with the heat.

At 4:30 we headed back into town and returned to Sue and Chris' hotel (Kita Kourou) where we once again sat down and relaxed while looking out on the street in front. I ordered what we call in The Gambia as “Ataya” (tea brewed 50/50 with sugar in a small teapot over coals) while Anne ordered Fish & Chips. It was a bit annoying then when they delivered Chicken & Chips that she returned only to have them return with Fish & Chips where the fish was only half cooked! She had a few words with the manager and refused to pay full price. When Chris and Sue joined us later they said that there had been another incident earlier in the day with the food here. Oh dear.

Chris and Sue eventually did join us with Chris digging into a whole chicken he had purchased in the market (1,000 CFA). He told us there was a stall with a large number of chickens that they were deep-frying whole. He managed to make his way through the whole thing much to our amazement. After this we made our way over to Campemant where we had drinks with Ebrima and Diana who is feeling much better (she even was in the mood for soup!). Anne and I left the group so that I could have something to eat at a restaurant recommended by Chris and Sue for their good chips and passable mutton. It was a small place on the other side of a rather deep ditch full of sewage separating the restaurant from the road. The walls on the outside “porch” area were woven matting while the house at the back was the normal mud. I had to go in search of help but eventually found someone to take my order while we helped ourselves to cold drinks. “Jus de Pomme” is my favourite drink here so far – Bottled in Bamako for some reason it is sparkling apple juice that is slightly sweet. Anne, having “eaten” earlier, had a café au lait while I helped myself to the rather bony mutton but excellent serving of sweet potato chips.

9:00 we returned to the hotel. Tomorrow we are planning to move on to Mopti that, we hope, will be the gateway to the river and, eventually, Timbuktu.

⇒ Continue to Part 3 - The Journey to Timbuctu