We are on the road, finally. Away from the big city of Bamako though we did have a bit of a rocky start. Getting up in the morning it was apparent that we could not stay where we were. Nobody had really had a very good night's sleep, we could hear the pitter-patter of rats on the roof and never mind the numerous mosquitoes eating us alive. Over breakfast at the small place across the road that we had visited last night for coffee we made the decision to move onto Ségou today. We had been thinking about staying in Bamako for a few days but what we had seen so far had not really impressed us. We agreed that if we wanted to visit the museum and other “attractions” (such as the market) we would do that perhaps on the way back.

We agreed that with the situation with the trains it would be best to see what the procedure was for getting tickets before we left Bamako so we headed over to the train station which was not really that far away. When we finally found it by following an unmarked road between a number of stalls selling food (etc) we were greeted by a large number of people queuing for tickets for the daily train to Kayes. Looking around, just as in Dakar, there were no signs of any schedule but we were able to go through a side entrance onto the train platform itself where we confirmed with some staff members that we had to be at the train station the day before the train is scheduled to leave early in the morning to purchase tickets (meaning, Tuesday morning for the Wednesday train scheduled to leave at 9:00 am). So we have something to aim for: Return to Bamako before Tuesday on our last week away to return by train to Senegal. We will work out where in Senegal we want to go to later (having the choice of a number of stops in Senegal to choose from all the way to Dakar).

Returning to the hotel we quickly packed, paid our room (I felt a bit guilty since we had indicated to Fanta that we would stay two nights, oh well). Then went off in search of a local “bâchée” to the bus terminal which we had learned was quite a distance south down Av. Du Fleuve (Av. Modibo Keita). Eventually we managed to clamber on board our first “bâchée” (somehow I think this will not be our last). It is similar to the bush-taxis we use in The Gambia – a van with the side door missing in which they have a bench wrapped along all four walls. There are holes cut into the sides of the van to serve as windows (don't be serious, glass! No way!). The “apparenti” (the “conductor”) always leans out the door held which has a strap across it (I don't think it would do much good if he slipped…) yelling the destination to attract additional passengers. Making it clear where we wanted to go (“Sogoniko bus terminal”) we headed off. For 125 CFA we must have gone 4 or 5 miles along a fantastic road lined with shops on smaller, side roads running parallel.

Eventually we were dropped at an area where there were a large number of bâchées waiting around. A helpful person took us across the road where we found a number of bus companies including the one we were interested in – going to Ségou. It was basically a small building with ticket windows in it with a small waiting room behind and a number of buses lined up alongside. The ticket prices were painted on the wall and getting a ticket was quite simple (which included giving our name – tickets were 2,500 CFA each).

Crowding around what we were told was our bus we heard our names called and we boarded. The bus was in very good shape (compared to what we were used to) and I sat with Anne with Sue/Chris a few rows behind. I noticed with interest one gentleman coming on board with an adze slung over his shoulder and a few knives hanging from his belt walking up the aisle to find a seat – no rules about (potential) weapons, I guess. How he got through the metal detector, I will never know!

The trip was relatively uneventful. We continued our way down Av. Du Fleuve where we eventually came to a large roundabout which had in the middle of it the “Little Eiffel Tower” (according to some information I read in a guide book) which is just a tall monument where we turned left – We were now on the road that essentially goes all the way across the country, from here in Bamako all the way to Gao, some 1,000 km (or more) away passing along the way, in order, Ségou, Djenné (off the road a bit), Mopti/Sévaré, Douentza and Gao at the end (notice no Timbuktu – that is a LONG way off the road). After passing through the outskirts of Bamako I was surprised to see some rock hills periodically sticking up out of the landscape (there IS no such “interesting” landscape in The Gambia, at least, not generally). I was amazed at how green everything was all along the road. The road itself was in great shape and the bus moved very quickly for the 3 1/2 hour journey to Ségou. We passed by a number of small villages where most of the houses all seem to be made of mud – again, quite different than what we see in The Gambia. All of the mosques seem to be of a similar design – mud again but in the shape of what I would call a castle with various towers spiked with wooden posts coming out from them.

Arriving in Ségou we were a bit exhausted (why is it that travel, even though you are doing nothing, is so exhausting?) and frustrated since the bus had dropped us at an area quite some distance from the centre of town where the hotel we wanted to stay at was located. Judging from the complaints of a lot of people on board we were not the only ones upset. We managed to catch a taxi to “Hotel de France” which I had noticed advertised along the way as being a cheap place to stay. Anne and I decided to give it a try so we went in to find a large central courtyard with rooms all around on two different levels. We were given very spartan rooms on the first floor (above ground floor) side by side with a toilet/shower en-suite (7,500 CFA a night) which we left our luggage in while we locked up and went out with Chris and Sue in search of some food.

Eventually we stopped at a local restaurant in the middle of town with a patio out on the pavement. We ordered our drinks then waited for a few minutes for our food. Chris and I had ordered a steak sandwich but eventually we got our steaks without any bread. Thinking nothing of it we ate then when we got the bill we were told it was 1,500 CFA and not the 750 CFA we expected for the sandwich! Grumbling about this we paid up then headed out to find Sue and Chris' hotel. They had decided to try a place called “Djoliba” where they had learned you could get accommodation on the roof for 7,500 CFA a night. Anne and I were not too sure about this so that is why we had decided on the rooms at Hotel de France. Djoliba turns out to be absolutely fantastic. The place is run by a German (I believe) who has furnished the place with quality furniture from (of all places) IKEA. The “roof” turned out to be a covered area with about 10-12 beds lined up along the wall (all with mosquito nets and fresh bedding supplied by the hotel) with two toilets and a shower (WITH hot and cold running water). Now, at 4,000 CFA a night both Anne and I agreed we would be far happier there.

So, agreeing that we should just go and grab our belongings (possibly pay the hotel a bit of a consolation fee for leaving early) and return to stay here with Sue and Chris. This turned out to be a BIG mistake. Having picked up our bags and were leaving the Hotel de France the proprietor got quite upset and would not hear of us paying him any money and was on his mobile telephone quite upset. It turns out he was talking to the police. He followed behind us to the new hotel but we took no notice and checked in.

We were on our beds relaxing when the gentleman from the front desk came up to tell us the police were here and wanted to have a word with us but he assured us there was “no problem”. The police and the proprietor from the other hotel were waiting for us in the bantaba area in the central courtyard of the hotel. It was a heated argument and discussion made more frustrating by the fact that Anne and I could not really communicate all that well with the complicated French being spoken. We could not get across our situation so eventually we ended up paying the other proprietor for the night we did not spend there and also a “fee” to the policeman (10,000 CFA) to avoid having to go to court (or so we were told). I was extremely upset and managed to sputter out in VERY bad French that I would do my best to ensure that NONE of my friends or anyone I know would ever visit that hotel. We were both extremely upset and shaken by the whole incident. I believe we made the best decision: If the owner was going to act like that I don't know if I would have wanted to stay in his hotel never mind the fact that this hotel is so much better! The maitre'd from Djoliba was so apologetic to us and was extremely distressed as well though we assured him we were alright. Ok, a bit of a lie.

We decided to go for a bit of a walk and, after purchasing water, Anne and I headed down to the river. There we saw a pinasse (a large pirogue) full of people waiting to cross to the other side of the river where there are a few Bozo villages (basically, fishing villages). We also spotted a ferry (obviously out of use) moored up on the concrete dock. There were also a number of people washing along the shore as well.

We decided to calm ourselves down a bit and returned to the Hotel L'Auberge which is the most expensive place to stay in Ségou which is just beside our hotel where we sat in the back courtyard (beside the pool) and had an orange press. We consoled ourselves with the situation and simply enjoyed watching the numerous lizards wandering around the empty tables and surrounding bushes. Inquiring at the front desk we were told we could not even pay to use the pool – we had to be staying there. Oh well. Nice place though.

Returning to our hotel we told Chris and Sue what had happened and they were obviously upset about it as well though we assured them it was for the best and that it is all OK now. Chris had learned that at 9:00 there was supposed to be some live music so we planned on visiting later. I returned with Sue and Chris to watch the sunset over the Niger which was pleasant as they talked about possibly visiting one of the Bozo villages or perhaps a dam that is a few miles away on the other side that is supposed to be quite something to see.

At the hotel we played a few games of cards until we got fed up with fighting off all the bugs that seemed to be attracted to the lights on the balcony where we were sitting. The sleeping area is on the second floor with rooms on the ground and first floors. On your way to the second floor, just at the top of the stairs there is a large open balcony area where there is a pizza oven and a number of tables set-up. Our room is accessed by a rather steep staircase off to the right of the balcony that overlooks the street.

We headed out to find the live music but when we found the correct place we were told it was recorded music so we did not want to pay the rather expensive cover charge for that (1,000 CFA). Chris and Sue helped themselves to “fish & chips” from a lady on the street (a whole fish deep-fried and sweat potato “chips) while Anne and I returned to the hotel for a relatively early night. We quickly saw that it looks like a number of people will be sharing the “roof” with us tonight. Hope they do not snore (like me)…

⇒ Continue to Day 6 - Friday, July 23rd, 2004

In Ségou Steve stayed at:

• Djoliba Hotel & Bar & Restaurant, B.P. 140 - Telephone/Fax: (+223) 2 321 572 - zarth@afribone.net.ml