Day 21 - Saturday, August 7th, 2004

I seem to be getting use to early mornings (5:30 this one!) though this is probably also due to the fact we get to bed quite early every night. Last night I was extremely warm in the room. I kept my door open, screen door shut, as much of the night as I could to try to encourage some cool air to circulate. It was not altogether successful.

At 6:00 I woke the others (since I am the only one of the three of us with a watch) and at 6:30 we had settled the bill and were off.

Breakfast was once again at our favourite stall: Musa “Owen” (he seems to love his “Michael Owen” football shirt he is always wearing with, of course, “Owen” on the back). His omelette was fantastic as we supped then headed to the bush taxi park to meet Anne. She had purchased our tickets for our return trip to Sévaré in a bush taxi (1,200 CFA), supposed to leave at 7:30. It surprised us greatly when the driver actually seemed determined to leave on time so we all boarded at 7:30 (it was not entirely full, thank goodness). The bush taxis here seem to be along the same lines as the bâchées with the back of the van simply a bench along the three walls with people sitting in the middle. I suppose the only difference being it is a bit bigger and it is a bit more enclosed.

Once again at the bus terminal in Sévaré we had a lot of hassle this time with people hurrying us along to catch the bus we wanted to get to Ségou. Chris needed to use the toilet so was not in a hurry to board the bus so we got increasingly annoyed with the “help” the people were giving us but eventually we boarded a few minutes later. Anne did not manage to get anything to eat so was a bit upset about that.

We left at about 9:00 and the trip was relatively uneventful (as uneventful as these things go). We stopped once again at San for a few minutes in the bus terminal. There I was able to get some meat (500 CFA) on bread along with some boiled eggs. Sue was able to get some Maggi cube (sort of like Oxo cubes – very salty additive for sauces) that we used to give some flavour to the boiled eggs. I also managed to find some sesame snap-type confectionery (sesame seeds in melted sugar that has cooled) as well as some groundnuts (where would we be without those?). I was even pleased to find some frozen “bissap” or “wonjo” (a red sweet drink made from Sorrel). Every stop there seemed to be a different assortment of things to eat or goods to buy.

Bus to Ségou

There was only one minor mechanical stop along the way that is actually quite good (though it was in the heat of the day).

Eventually we arrived in Ségou at about 4:30. We headed immediately from the bus terminal to our hotel and there was no discussion as to what that might be: Djoliba would be getting us as customers yet again. The man at the front desk was pleased to see us and welcomed us again.

Once again we booked beds on the terrace with Anne and I making the choice to have dinner at the hotel. The clay oven we had noticed at the bottom of the stairs leading to the terrace was going to be used to make pizza (!) which, by some strange coincidence, I had been talking about wanting earlier in the day. We sat down at our table that was right beside where a live band came to play what turned out to be the same type of song over and over again all evening. Chris and Sue were going to try the restaurant across the street where I had first met Diana and Ebrima but since they had no meat they joined us at the hotel instead, ordering brochettes “avec frites” from the menu (which they said were quite enjoyable).

It has been a lot of travel today, about 8 hours or so? I hope whoever is sharing our terrace with us is not noisy but they do look a bit young. Oh dear.

⇒ Continue to Day 22 - Sunday, August 8th, 2004