Pays Dogon (Dogon Country)

Dogon Country is one of the most interesting and beautiful places in the world with villages seemingly untouched by time (but not, it seems, by tourists), fantastic scenery and amazing history. Essentially, it is a series of villages all along the Dogon escarpment running south and east (then northeast) of Bandiagara in the central eastern part of Mali. Visitors typically “trek” (hike) into the area with local guides for any number of days.

You can pick up guides from Bandiagara, Mopti, Sevaré or Douentza. If you want to avoid the tourists it is recommended you get a guide from Douentza but it is recommended if you do approach from the south you get a guide from Bandiagara rather than Mopti or Sevaré (where they may not always be local guides). Always make sure you clear your guide with a local guiding organisation (ask them to show you where it is) and get a contract written up and signed (with witnesses, if possible). Expect to pay about 12,000 (if you are a student or volunteer) to 15,000 CFA per day per person from Bandiagara or more if you are further away. Normally the guiding service would include transport to the area as well as all daily meals and accomodation (all of which should be specified in the contract).

I would recommend a trek of at least 3 days if not more to attempt to even get a basic feeling for the area. Keep in mind that the walking can be quite difficult particularly when climbing up or down the escarpment. If you are trekking for three days you can expect to be walking for about 3 hours a day – possibly in very warm temperatures.

The only water available while trekking is local (well) water so it is recommended that you bring bottled water with you (or treatment tablets). Similarly it is a good idea to use sunscreen to avoid getting burned.

Accommodation throughout the Dogon area is in “Campements” which are local compounds that are just like a small hotel with basic rooms and food for tourists.

For further information, please see:

• Mali Journal - My visit in the Summer of 2004